Last week, Edward decided we should purchase salt and pepper mills for our table. He doesn’t like setting out a small dish of kosher salt and my trusty walnut Peugeot pepper mill (he thinks it’s ugly) I use for cooking.

On a Sunday morning, we set out for Fante’s, 1006 S. Ninth St. We ended up buying acrylic Peugeot mills, a wooden box to keep kosher salt for cooking and a cast-iron skillet. Every time we shop at Fante’s, we get hungry.

When I reviewed Fond, 1617 E. Passyunk Ave., we noticed RoseLena’s was shuttered and now called Michael’s Café. It is open for breakfast and lunch, so we decided to drive over.

The interior retains the funky, old-fashioned feel that was RoseLena’s. The china is mismatched, the display cases filled with dishes and serving pieces from the last century, and the almost home-like setting is most comforting.

The aroma of coffee beans filled the room. Big mugs filled with steaming Blue Ridge coffee arrived at our table. Forget Starbuck’s; this is the finest coffee in town.

The prices were downright cheap. Not moderate, really cheap. Breakfast and lunch run $5 to $7.50.

Edward ordered the pancakes of the day ($7) prepared with fresh, creamy ricotta and grated orange zest. They were light, fluffy and melted in the mouth. Two round sausage patties ($3) tasted as if they were made at the restaurant. They were seared, filled with seasoned flavor and among the best we’ve ever tasted.

Café omelette ($6.50) was filled with sautéed mushrooms, fresh spinach and a choice of cheddar, American or Monterey Jack. Although this was a bit brown on the outside, it was not overcooked, but piping-hot and filled with fresh sliced mushrooms, spinach and cheese. A side of country ham ($3) was on the honey side and not a bit salty. Rye toast is marble rye.

We enjoyed our three-tips-of-the-toque breakfast so much we wanted to try Michael’s for dinner.

The BYOB is sandwiched between Paradiso, 1627 E. Passyunk, and Fond. It might be a tall order to compete with these gems.

Our server opened our wine and we looked over the menu. The prices were still very low. There were no appetizers, but a choice of soup or salad. Potatoes loom large here. Sweet, mashed or baked versions are served with every dish. I was surprised when our server told us the soup of the day was sweet potato. It arrived lukewarm with a few peanuts on top. The house salad was a small dish of ordinary mesclun, cucumber and tomato. The homemade blue cheese dressing, however, was delicious.

One of the specials was a wilted winter salad ($8). I like wilted greens, but this consisted of shredded red cabbage in a beet juice sauce with specks of greens so microscopic I could not name them.

Edward ordered the pork loin with sweet potatoes ($16) and, although Thanksgiving was before us, I wanted turkey ($16). The pork was overcooked and lukewarm. There was a somewhat sweet sauce surrounding it that Edward said had a funny taste. Cubes of cool sweet potatoes came with dinner.

My meal was cold. A few thick slices of turkey breast were topped with a salty white gravy, which was strange. Turkey gravy is caramel-colored. The mashed potatoes were cold and tasted like library paste. The stuffing was cold, as well.

I tried the roast chicken. It wasn’t. The chef took chicken parts and baked them. The breast, leg and thigh were burnt on top. The breast meat was dry, but the dark meat fared a little better. Instead of potatoes, our server recommended macaroni and cheese. This was nothing more than slightly overcooked noodles awash in a watery white liquid.

Here’s the dilemma: Michael’s Café serves a hearty, fresh, delicious breakfast — no one put a foot wrong — but dinner is less than mediocre.

One-and-a-half tips of the toque to Michael’s Café.

 

Michael’s Café

1623 E. Passyunk Ave.

215-389-9915

www.michaels-cafe.net/