south philly review

The city is filled with everyday but special people who take the time to teach you and talk with you. Harry was special to me (Photo by Bruce Anderson).

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Honoring Harry
The Mayor of the Market died last week, but his memory will live on in the kitchens of his customers.

I was saddened to learn of the death of Harry G. Ochs Jr. last week at age 80. For more than half a century, Harry owned and operated Harry G. Ochs & Sons in the Reading Terminal Market, 51 N. 12th St. I did not know he was born Harry G. Finocchio in South Philadelphia. As a teenager, he was a butcher’s apprentice at the legendary shop and changed his name when he bought it.

Much of what I know about beef came from Harry. It is ironic he left us during the holiday season, a time when families get together in the kitchen to prepare special meals.

I bought my first filet of beef from Harry. Whenever the urge to prepare jambalaya or paella would come over me, I’d head to Harry’s for the homemade spicy Andouille sausages that give these dishes such a hearty kick.

Harry’s loyal customers ran the gamut from District Attorney Lynne Abraham to men and women from all parts of the tri-state area. Whenever my friend Susan planned a trip to the south of France to visit her daughter and son-in-law, she called Harry, who would prepare two big briskets for the journey across the pond. They were tightly wrapped in several layers of butcher’s paper and placed in a flat box filled with dry ice. During the trip, Susan’s eyes never left Harry’s precious cargo. She placed the box under the seat in front of her.

Harry was the unofficial Mayor of the Market. Twenty years ago, as head of the merchants’ association, he was at the helm to save the market from the wrecking ball when the Pennsylvania Convention Center was being built at 1101 Arch St.

It’s safe to say Harry worked at the market longer than any other current merchant. He always wore his newsboy-like cap and a big smile. In 2004, the 1100 block of Filbert Street was renamed Harry Ochs Way.

The city is filled with everyday but special people who take the time to teach you and talk with you. Harry was special to me.

Here are recipes for holiday beef and lamb in honor of Harry. Keep the side dishes simply. Roasted potatoes and a green vegetable of your choice make fine accompaniments.

■ Filet of Beef with Horseradish Sauce ■


Ingredients:
1 5- to 6-pound filet of beef, brought to room temperature
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Rub the beef all over with the salt and pepper. Place in a shallow roasting pan.

Roast for 45 minutes for rare. Allow the beef to rest for about 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with the horseradish sauce.

Serves eight.

Note from Phyllis: Anything other than rare for this cut is a crime.

Horseradish Sauce


Ingredients:
1 pint of whipping cream
1 jar of horseradish, drained well

Directions:

Pour the cream into a large bowl. Using a handheld electric mixer, whip until soft peaks form.

Blend in the horseradish. Place in a serving bowl.

Serves eight.

Note from Phyllis: You can use a small colander or sieve to drain the horseradish.

■ Steak Diane ■


Ingredients:
2 6- to 8-ounce boneless rib steaks, pounded thin, brought to room temperature
1 tablespoon of canola oil
3 tablespoons of butter
4 tablespoons each of brandy or Cognac and dry red wine

Directions:

Heat the oil and butter over high in a large skillet. Sear the steaks for about two minutes on each side.

Add the brandy or Cognac and carefully ignite. Shake the skillet until the flames die down. Remove the meat to a warm platter.

Boil the wine in the skillet. Lower to a simmer and, using a wooden spoon, scrape up the brown bits on the bottom. You can add a tablespoon of butter for a richer flavor.

Serves two.

Note from Phyllis: This recipe can be easily doubled.

■ Rack of Lamb ■


Ingredients:
1 rack of lamb, or 8 chops, Frenched and brought to room temperature
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Rub the lamb all over with the salt and pepper. Place, fat side up, in a shallow roasting pan.

Roast for about 45 minutes for medium-rare.

Carve between each chop with an electric knife, if possible.

Serves two.

Note from Phyllis: The recipe can be easily doubled.